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Située
juste au dessus des Bonnes-Mares, cette parcelle présente une pédologie
remarquable : la terre est inexistante. La vigne est plantée directement
sur la roche mère calcaire et s'y porte très bien; elle
a su trouver les failles entre les pierres et les strates rocheuses et
plonger profondément ses racines pour trouver de quoi s'alimenter.
Cette partie de la parcelle (0,51 ha) fut planté en 1981 avec du
chardonnay.
Ce Morey St-Denis blanc est un des rares vins blancs de la Côte
de Nuits mais ceci dit, le terroir s'y prête remarquablement. Il
s'agit d'un vin parfumé et au caractère minéral affirmé.
L'acidité est toujours bonne et le vin, agréable en jeunesse,
vieillit très bien.
BURGHOUND 2011
Bruno Clair describes 2009 as a “vintage that gave us excellent quality and very good quantity even though there was a high proportion of shot berries. We began picking on the 15th of September with the whites and then moved to the reds. Sugars were quite strong at between 12.5 and 13.4% potential alcohol. We did a normal vinification with about 10% whole clusters and the malos were normal as well. I was frankly worried about what the resulting wines would look like given that there wasn’t very much malic acid to begin with but in fact, the wines are really quite fresh and you don’t notice the low acidity.
Indeed, so much so that I believe that our ‘09s are among the best balanced wines that we have ever made.” I agree with Clair that his ‘09s are truly beautifully balanced and overall, they are brilliant wines, particularly at the villages level though there are lovely examples up and down the range. The now in-bottle ‘08s are also terrific and well worth your attention as well.
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